Rating and value of Jean Després jewels, necklaces, bracelets, rings

If you own a piece of jewelry created by or after the artist Jean Després, and would like to know its value, our state-approved experts and auctioneers will offer you their appraisal services.

Our specialists will carry out a free appraisal of your work, and provide you with an accurate estimate of its value on the current market.

Then, if you wish to sell your work, we will direct you to the best possible arrangement to obtain the optimum price.  

Rating and value of artist Jean Després         

A celebrated silversmith and jewelry designer of his time, Després leaves behind a unique artistic identity. This legacy consists mainly of Art Deco jewelry.

At present, the prices of his creations are rising at auctioneers' gavels, his quotation is stable. His jewels are particularly prized, especially by French buyers, and the price at which they sell on the art market ranges from €30 to €250,000, a considerable delta but one that speaks volumes about the value that can be attributed to Després' jewelry.

In 2015, a silver and black lacquer cuff bracelet, model n°7, dating from 1931 was sold for €250,000 while it was estimated at €5,000.

Order of value from a simple work to the most prestigious 

Style and technique of Jean Desprès jewelry 

Jean Despès produces Art Deco jewelry, mostly in silver. He is famous for his talents as a goldsmith, which have also enabled him to create table services, ashtrays, vases and other objects relating to the art of the table.

He uses solid silver, the main metal of his aesthetic language, in combination with sober, modern materials (colored enamels, glass, precious stones such as onyx, coral, rock crystal and quartz).

He rejects the ostentation of precious stones in favor of the plastic value of metal. His jewelry is rigorously handcrafted, influenced by his training as a draftsman and his experience in aviation.

His jewelry is created with a strict, uncluttered geometry, inspired by mechanics and the industrial arts. He works in volume, with a search for massive, sculptural forms, far removed from traditional jewelry.

His aesthetic is geometric and architectural, with circles, spheres, cubes, cones, straight lines and sharp angles. His construction is based on principles of structural clarity and formal balance. He achieves a decorative effect through the repetition and assembly of simple modules.

His visual language is marked by the influence of cubism and constructivism, which are transposed into jewelry. His style is both austere and modernist, sometimes described as " mechanistic ".

He shows a taste for a formal, stripped-down aesthetic, breaking with the preciousness of Art Deco jewelry. He is related to the Artisanat d'Art movement, but also to the ideals of the Bauhaus.

Desprès works with specific techniques, notably mastering the hammering of chasing and silver, creating textured, vibrant surfaces. He also works with soldering and modular assembly, giving an industrial look while remaining artisanal.

He integrates cloisonné enamel and simply cut stones, always with a logic of purity.

He also adapts goldsmithing techniques to wearable jewelry, making metal an expressive element in its own right. His jewelry is part of a broader vision of the French artistic avant-garde of the 1920s - 1930s, and his approach helps redefine jewelry as a modern, sober and functional art object.

The life of Jean Després     

Born in Allier in 1889, Jen Després is a French silversmith. He came from a family of artisan glassmakers. Not a very bright student, his father placed him in an apprenticeship with a friend in the Marais district of Paris.

He took drawing classes and frequented the Futurist and Cubist circles of the time : there he rubbed shoulders with Chaïm Soutine, Modigliani, Picasso and Georges Braque, his best friend. In 1914, he was classified in the auxiliary service due to a health problem, but was eventually drafted into the air force.

This period left a lasting mark on his work, drawing inspiration from the various drawings he made for aviation. He took over his parents' workshop, where he created " bijoux-moteurs " inspired by the aesthetics of aeronautical parts. He rejected high jewelry and the use of precious materials, preferring to use copper, silver or pewter.

He first participated in the Salon des Indépendants in 1926.

In 1940, Després became president of the goldsmiths' union. Josephine Baker became one of his most loyal customers, and he exhibited in various countries. Beyond being a talented artist, he was an important figure in the art world, forming friendships with Fernand Léger, René Lalique and many others.

He died in 1980 at the age of 91.

Jean Després' imprint on his time 

Jean Després left an important artistic legacy, bearing witness to the ongoing artistic renewal of the 20th century. His works are exhibited in many prestigious art collections around the world and in churches, even though he is little known to the general public.

Today, his works are still successful at auction. Although some of his works are kept in museums in Europe, private collectors play a major role in preserving his work, his works are very rarely presented at auction.

Market segmentation and artist's rating

The most sought-after items on the market are the iconic hammered silver pieces. Thus, sterling silver necklaces, cuff bracelets, pendants and brooches are the most prized. They are recognizable by their cubist geometry and massive volumes.

Prices will range from €5,000 to €20,000 depending on the jewel's rarity, condition and provenance. Jewelry with semi-precious stones is the next segment, with insertions of onyx, carnelian, rock crystal and smoky quartz.

Their value is increased when they are unpublished or large-scale pieces. The range is between €8,000 and €30,000, with higher records for complete necklaces or sautoirs.

Pieces with colored enamels (often cloisonné or inserted in silver) constitute a smaller market, but one much appreciated by specialized collectors. They range from €3,000 to €10,000.

Demand is rising sharply, fueled by renewed interest in Art Deco modernist jewelry since the 2010s. The scarcity is structural, as authenticated and well-preserved pieces are few and far between, driving prices up.

Museum interest is present, as acquisitions by the Musée des Arts Décoratifs and other institutions have taken place, reinforcing the legitimacy of Desprès's work.

Recognizing the artist's signature

Jean Després sometimes signs or stamps his works. However, there are a few copies, so expertise is essential.

Knowing the value of a work 

If you happen to own a piece of jewelry by Jean Desprès or after the artist, don't hesitate to request a free appraisal using our form on our website.

A member of our team of experts and licensed auctioneers will contact you promptly to provide you with an estimate of the market value of your work, not forgetting to send you ad hoc information about it.

If you are considering selling your work, you will also be accompanied by our specialists in order to benefit from alternatives for selling it at the best possible price, taking into account market inclinations.