Rating and value of Suzanne Belperron's jewels, bracelets and brooches

If you own a work by or after the artist Suzanne Belperron, and would like to know its value, our state-approved experts and auctioneers will offer you their appraisal services.

Our specialists will carry out a free appraisal of your work, and provide you with an accurate estimate of its value on the current market.

Then, if you wish to sell your work, we will direct you to the best possible arrangement to obtain the optimum price.

Rating and value of artist Suzanne Belperron  

Suzanne Belperron is an artist known to jewelry collectors. Now, prices for her creations are rising at the auctioneers' gavel.

Her brooches are particularly prized, especially by French buyers, and the price at which they sell on the art market ranges from €250 to €110,000, a significant delta but one that speaks volumes about the value that can be attributed to the artist's work.

In 2022, A brooch Pomme d'or, dating from 1970 sold for €110,000, while it was estimated at between €40,000 and €60,000. Its value is exploding.

Order of value from a single work to the most prestigious on French sales

Style and technique by artist Suzanne Belperron

Suzanne Belperron (1900 - 1983) is a great modern jewelry designer. She made bold use of unconventional materials in fine jewelry, such as quartz, rock crystal, agate, carnelian, aventurine, topaz, citrine or chalcedony.

She innovatively combines precious stones (diamonds, sapphires, emeralds and rubies) with semi-precious or ornamental stones. She works in both gold and platinum or silver, depending on the desired effect.

She refuses signed preparatory drawings, and works directly at the start of her career with Bernard Herz, modeling shapes in wax or gouache, considering and asserting " my style is my signature ".

Her jewelry is conceived as miniature sculptures, with full, curvaceous and sensual volumes. Her execution is meticulous and rigorous, combining sober lines and meticulous setting work.

The shapes are organic and biomorphic, inspired by nature, minerals and decorative art. She uses fluid, rounded lines, breaking with the angular Art Deco of the 1920s, drawing inspiration from ancient art (Etruscan and Greek jewelry) and Oriental art (Persian motifs and Asian influences).

Her compositions are thought out in terms of plastic balance, favoring formal power over rigid symmetry. Chromatic contrasts are original, with dazzling gemstones set in matte or translucent settings.

She plays on transparency with rock crystal and smoky quartz, and on opacity with onyx and coraline, enabling her to create effects of depth. The balance between the brilliance of diamonds and the softness of opaque stones is therefore quite subtle.

Suzanne Belperron asserts a modern aesthetic, bold and independent vis-à-vis traditional jewelry codes. Her body of work illustrates the desire to make jewelry a work of art in its own right, which goes beyond mere adornment. Her creations embody both French elegance and a form of sculptural radicalism.

Despite some art deco creations for René Boivin, she anticipates the organic modernism of the 1930s - 1950s. She is close to the spirit of the artistic avant-gardes (modern sculpture, late cubism and surrealism), while remaining within her field.

Suzanne Belperron is a pioneer in the recognition of jewelry as a creative work, on a par with painting or sculpture.

The artist's career and the world of Suzanne Belperron jewelry

Suzanne Belperron (1900 - 1983) is one of the greatest jewelry designers of the 20th century. Born in Saint-Claude, Jura, she trained at the École des Beaux-Arts in Besançon, where she studied drawing, engraving and modeling.

She graduated in 1919 with a gold medal for her talent in decorative art, and moved to Paris in the early 1920s. At the same time, she joined René Boivin as a draughtswoman, and quickly became artistic director, imposing her bold style on the company.

She participated in the emergence of innovative jewelry, combining precious and ornamental stones. During the Occupation, Herz, who was Jewish, was deported and murdered. Belperron took over the business, ensuring the continuity of their work.

After the war, she founded the Maison Herz-Belperron with Bernard Herz's son, Jean. Her jewelry attracted a prestigious clientele, including Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, Wallis Simpson, Josephine Baker and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. The artist has always refused to sign her jewelry.

Schiaparelli is considered a revolutionary in the jewelry world, through her use of organic volumes and atypical materials, and positions jewelry as a sculptural work at the crossroads of art and fashion. Her pieces move away from the classicism of Cartier or Boucheron to impose a radical modernity.

She continued to work until the 1970s, retaining a loyal and international clientele, and died in Paris in 1983. Long unknown to the general public due to her refusal to sign her works, she was adored by connoisseurs.

In the 1980s - 1990s, she was rediscovered thanks to auctions and interest in modernist creators. She is now considered a major figure in 20th-century jewelry, on a par with René Lalique for Art Nouveau or Cartier for Art Deco.  

Market segmentation

The pieces that are most sought-after today are iconic pieces such as the famous Tube bracelet (diamonds, platinum, white gold) for which prices are negotiated between $800,000 and almost $1M, with a record at $945,000 in 2025 at Christie's.

Sighted at the 2025 sale was a platinum sautoir adorned with pink topaz, aquamarine, morganite and diamonds, estimated at €250,000 to €350,000, and a chalcedony and amethyst cuff bracelet estimated at $80,000 to $120,000.

Jewelry in ornamental or semi-precious stones (amethyst, chalcedony, quartz and pearls) are also among the most sought-after segments. Bracelets, brooches or ornaments often fetch $50,000 to $200,000, and even $400,000 for exceptional pieces.

Medium-sized pieces and everyday objects (brooches, rings, clips) also fetch very high sums. A pair of clips, for example, fetched $62,700, over 50% of the estimate.

A rock crystal and diamond (faceted cuff) diamond ring, which was estimated at several tens of thousands of euros, sold for around $415,800.

Prices have risen rapidly since the 2010s, particularly after the rediscovery of her archives in 2007, and the sale of the Duchess of Windsor's jewels in 1987. A cornucopia brooch (set with emeralds and diamonds) fetched €553,000 in 2010, and a multi-gem bracelet sold for €331,000 in 2011.

A sale held in Geneva in 2012 raised €2.7 million, tripling the estimate. Between 2019 and 2024, 82% of Belperron jewelry sales at Sotheby's exceeded their high estimate. In short, supply is limited and demand is strong.

Recognizing the artist's signature

Suzanne Belperron never signs her works. There are many copies, which is why an appraisal by the only specialist holding Suzanne Belperron's archives is crucial to the sale of the object.

Knowing the value of a work

If you happen to own a work by Suzanne Belperron or after the artist, don't hesitate to request a free appraisal using our form on our website.

A member of our team of experts and chartered auctioneers will contact you promptly to provide you with an estimate of the market value of your work, as well as ad hoc information about it.

If you are considering selling your work, you will also be accompanied by our specialists in order to benefit from alternatives for selling it at the best possible price, taking into account the inclinations of the market.