Cote et valeur des bijoux, bracelets, rings Cartier - Love collection

If you own a piece of Cartier jewelry, and would like to know its value, our state-approved experts and auctioneers will offer you their appraisal services.

Our specialists will carry out a free appraisal of your piece, and provide you with a precise estimate of its value on the current market.

Then, should you wish to sell your work, we will direct you to the best possible arrangement to obtain the optimum price.

Their value can vary depending on the material : gold jewelry is always highly prized, but original creations set with precious stones or diamonds are all the more prized.

Quote and value of Cartier jewelry

Cartier jewelry is a popular item at auction. They are collected by bidders of all nationalities. Now, prices for these objects can rise considerably under the auctioneer's hammer.

The Love and Juste un clou bracelets are particularly prized, by buyers from all over the world. The price at which they sell on the art market ranges from €500 to €27,300, at the moment, a consequent gap but one that says a lot about the value that can be attributed to these objects.

In 2023, a Love bracelet in 18k white gold, set with 216 brilliant-cut diamonds for 3.15 carats was sold for €27,300, while it was estimated at between €20,000 and €35,000.

Order of value from a simple work to the most prestigious

Style and technique of the Love collection 

The Love collection is characterized by clean lines, rigorous volumes and precise proportions. The pattern is visible and singular. The screws, known as " à tête de vis " inlaid on the precious metal, are a constant graphic element and a sign of identity.

The bracelet is designed to be a unisex model, more so than the other variations in the collection such as rings, necklaces or earrings. The aesthetic is designed to transcend gender and emphasize commitment and symbolism.

Cartier uses a variation of materials and finishes, with yellow, white and rose gold, sometimes set with pavé diamonds. Depending on the model, the result is a combination of sobriety and luxury. This collection has a strong symbolic implication : the design, notably of the Love bracelet with its screw fastening, was conceived as a symbol of sustainable commitment.

The screw fastening is visible, so the screw heads are not concealed but integrated into the design, an element of formal innovation in jewelry.

The closing mechanism is specific to the Love bracelet, with opening and closing by a screwdriver supplied with the bracelet, locking the object to the wrist, reinforcing the symbolic dimension of the jewel.

Over time, numerous variations with diamond settings have emerged, with some bracelets featuring a defined number of diamonds, often between 4 and 10, integrated into the jewel's band, requiring precise calibration and installation.

The last few years have seen a technical diversification of the format: the rigid bracelet version is still very popular, but there is also an open cuff version, rings with screw motifs, and necklaces and earrings. The company recently introduced a new model, the Love unlimited, which is characterized by its flexibility.

The history of the House of Cartier

The Cartier workshop was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, who took over the workshop from his master, Adolphe Picard. In 1874, he passed the business on to his son, Alfred Cartier, marking the transition to a more commercial and international dimension.

In 1899, one of the flagship boutiques opened at 13 rue de la Paix. At the very beginning of the 20th century, the company established itself in London (1902) and New York (1917-1919) via the New York house, embodied by a historic building : the Mansion on 5th Avenue, the result of one of the most famous real estate swaps in history, the building having been acquired by Cartier thanks to the exchange of a diamond.

In 1902, on the occasion of the coronation of King Edward VII, Cartier made 27 tiaras for the English court, consolidating its status among royal families.

Cartier became a key player in luxury jewelry, working with precious metals, gemstones, platinum and registering patents such as the invisible setting to push back the boundaries of jewelry design.

Craftsmanship became central, with jewelers, setters and designers developing a style synonymous with elegance, exclusivity and innovation. The positioning " joaillier des rois et roi des joaillers " is attributed to Cartier by Edouard VII, reinforcing the house's image of international prestige.

The twentieth century is a period of globalization, the house moves from being a family business to an international brand, infested in many luxury markets around the world.

From 1970 to 1990, the house restructures, consolidates its activities and diversifies into watches, leather goods and accessories.

Today, Cartier is part of the Richemont luxury group, and operates in over 200 boutiques globally, while pursuing craftsmanship, technical innovation and heritage transmission.

Aldo Cipullo and the creation of the Love bracelet

Love is first and foremost the initiative and creative genius of Aldo Cipullo. In 1969, the designer suffered a romantic break-up that prevented him from sleeping. He recounts waking up in the middle of the night, haunted by a broken love affair (in his own words).

He then felt the impulse to " keep something that no one can take away ". Fascinated by the industrial symbols present in New York City, such as workshops, screws and bolts, he drew inspiration from this vocabulary to create a jewel-object intended to remain permanently on the wrist.

The initial design was a rigid bracelet in yellow gold, adorned with six visible screws around the bezel, closed by two functional screws. From the outset, he planned for a screwdriver to be supplied with the bracelet.

Cipullo first presented his idea to Tiffany & Co, who rejected it. So it was to Cartier's New York branch that he headed, under the direction of Michael Thomas, who recognized it as emblematic.

From the outset, the bracelet was unisex, to be worn day and night, without being a showpiece. It shook up the norms of traditional jewelry.

Cartier offered the first examples to famous couples, for example Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, which enabled the house to reinforce the model's romantic and iconic image. The original story assumes that Love bracelets were to be sold only to couples coming to Cartier together.

Some New York maternity hospitals had a Cartier Love screwdriver in their emergency rooms to remove the bracelet in the event of surgery, a testament to the jewel's physical attachment.

The design thus took on a double dimension : that of a technical object and that of an emotional symbol, which explains its longevity and status as a contemporary classic.

Recognizing an authentic Love bracelet

Love bracelets are necessarily signed, hallmarked and marked with a serial number. There are an enormous number of counterfeits out there, so expertise is essential if you want to sell your jewelry.

Know the certain value of your jewel  

If you happen to own a Cartier jewel or think you might, don't hesitate to request a free appraisal using our form on our website.

A member of our team of experts and licensed auctioneers will contact you promptly to provide you with an estimate of the market value of your scarf, not forgetting to send you ad hoc information about it.

If you wish to sell your work of art, our specialists will also be on hand to offer you alternatives for selling it at the best possible price, taking into account market inclinations.