Longines: Appraisal and Auction of Your Watches

The winged hourglass, sports timing, and a legacy of watchmaking since 1832: the value of Longines watches varies significantly depending on the model, movement, and age.

Below, you’ll find all our valuation guides dedicated to Longines—including Longines collectible watches and historic models. Each guide details the price ranges observed at auction and the factors that determine a piece’s value before you entrust it to our state-certified auctioneers.

Longines, a Swiss watchmaker with a 200-year history

1832, Saint-Imier: The Founding of a Watchmaking Co-operative

In 1832, Auguste Agassiz founded a watch assembly workshop in Saint-Imier, a business that involved coordinating the work of various specialized artisans to assemble finished watches. This business model, common in the region at the time, marked the company’s first institutional foothold in the Swiss watchmaking landscape of the first half of the 19th century.

Ernest Francillon and Europe’s First Integrated Watch Manufactory (1867)

In 1867, Ernest Francillon, Auguste Agassiz’s nephew who had joined the company in 1852, took a decisive step by founding Longines in Saint-Imier—Europe’s first fully integrated watch manufacturing facility, bringing all watch production operations under one roof.

This organizational revolution, inspired by American models of the time, enabled the company to fully control the quality of its production and significantly improve its productivity.

The winged hourglass, the world’s oldest registered watchmaking trademark

Longines’ winged hourglass, registered in 1867, is recognized as the world’s oldest watch brand still in use today—a continuity spanning 157 years that attests to the manufacture’s remarkable institutional and commercial stability. This instantly recognizable logo is now one of the most important authentication features when examining a Longines watch.

Longines' Expertise and Milestones in Watchmaking

Aviation and Exploration: Lindbergh’s Hour-Angle Watch (1931)

In 1931, Longines collaborated with Charles Lindbergh—the first aviator to fly nonstop across the Atlantic in 1927—to create a watch specifically designed to calculate longitude in flight.

This hour angle watch, of remarkable functional complexity, perfectly illustrates Longines’ commitment to putting its technical expertise at the service of the great human adventures of its time.

Sports Timekeeping: A Long-Standing Partner of Equestrian and Skiing Competitions

Over the decades, Longines has established itself as the official timekeeper for numerous international sporting events, ranging from horse racing to alpine skiing and artistic gymnastics. This expertise in sports timekeeping, developed over more than a century, is a key element of the brand’s identity and international reputation.

Swiss Made and certified automatic movements: the commitment to precision

Every Longines watch bears the Swiss Made label, guaranteeing that the bulk of the watch’s value was created in Switzerland and that final assembly was carried out by the manufacture. This certification, combined with the meticulously adjusted automatic movements featured in the most demanding collections, reflects a constant commitment to horological precision.

The iconic collections that have made the brand so popular

Flagship and Master Collection: Timeless Classic Elegance

The Flagship Collection, whose origins date back to the 1950s, and the Master Collection embody Longines’ classic elegance, offering watches of remarkable finesse and readability, whose understated design has stood the test of time without ever going out of style. These collections form the cornerstones of the brand’s current lineup and represent the most accessible models on the pre-owned market.

HydroConquest and Legend Diver: Dive Watches with Roots in the 1960s

The HydroConquest and Legend Diver carry on the tradition of Longines diving watches, which began in the 1960s with models—some vintage examples of which are now particularly sought after by collectors of vintage sports watches. These sports collections offer a variety of entry points into the secondary market.

DolceVita and Conquest: sought-after ladies’ watches and sporty models

The DolceVita, whose rectangular case evokes the Italian elegance of the 1960s, and the Conquest, a sports collection available in a range of sizes, round out the brand’s offerings for female customers and sports enthusiasts who appreciate precision timepieces.

How to Identify and Authenticate a Longines Watch

Winged hourglass, engravings, and serial number: the hallmarks of authenticity

The winged hourglass engraved on the case back or featured on the dial is the most visible authentication mark on a Longines watch. This logo, whose design has evolved very slightly over the decades, allows an expert to roughly determine a watch’s production period. The serial number engraved on the movement or the case back enables more precise dating.

Original Case, Movement, and Strap: The Elements That Determine Value

The consistency between the case, movement, and original strap is an essential criterion for determining value. A non-original strap or a replaced movement can significantly affect the value of a vintage watch. The expert systematically checks these elements when examining a piece.

Documents, presentation box, and after-sales service: the documents to keep

Keeping the certificate of origin, the original case, and the purchase documents significantly enhances the estimated value of a Longines watch, offering the potential buyer a complete guarantee of traceability.

What Determines the Value of a Longines Watch

Model, year of manufacture, and rarity of the reference

The model and year of manufacture are the primary factors determining a watch’s value, with vintage watches from the 1950s through the 1970s generally commanding a significant premium over more recent models, due to their rarity and the growing appeal of the aesthetics of that era.

Automatic, chronograph, or GMT movement: the complication influences the price

The type of movement directly influences the value: a vintage automatic chronograph will be valued well above a simple three-hand movement from the same era, with the rarity and technical complexity of these calibers explaining this difference.

Condition, steel or leather strap, and provenance of the piece

The watch’s overall condition, the quality of the strap—whether it’s the original steel or leather—and its documented provenance are additional criteria that can significantly influence the final valuation.

Men's watches, women's watches, collectible watches: What is their value depending on the model?

Vintage watches and collectible timepieces: the most sought-after pieces

Longines watches from the golden age of the 1950s and 1960s—particularly those with long-power-reserve calibers or chronographs from that era—are the most sought-after pieces on the market for affordable collectible watches. These pieces, which remain affordable compared to models from major luxury watchmakers, allow collectors to acquire timepieces of remarkable mechanical quality.

Modern Automatic Watches and Chronographs: An Active Market

Automatic watches and chronographs from contemporary collections—led by the Master Collection—fuel an active and relatively liquid secondary market, with their values following the trends of the mid-range Swiss watch market in a reasonably predictable manner.

Dive watches and sports watches: robustness and aesthetics in high demand

Dive watches—particularly the Legend Diver—and sports watches enjoy sustained demand driven by collectors’ appreciation for the aesthetics of the 1960s, the era in which these models were originally designed.

Get a Free Appraisal of Your Longines Watch

Auctie's offers all Longines watch owners a free appraisal service, conducted by a state-certified auctioneer, within twenty-four hours.

A free, certified appraisal by a licensed auctioneer within 24 hours

This appraisal is based on a review of detailed photographs of the watch, including the serial number and the overall condition of the case and dial.

Information and photos needed for a reliable online appraisal

To help the expert provide an accurate estimate:

Clear photographs of the watch from multiple angles, including the dial and case back

The serial number engraved on the watch, if visible

The certificate of authenticity and the watch box, if available

The exact model reference, if known

Remote Appraisal or In-Person Appointment: The Process

The appraisal can be conducted entirely remotely or in person, depending on the complexity of the piece.

Selling Your Longines Watch at Auction

From the reserve price to the final bid: achieving the best price

The auction begins with the setting of a reserve price consistent with the initial estimate. Bidders then participate until the item is sold, a transparent process that guarantees the seller the best price possible given market conditions.

Hôtel Drouot and Online Auctions: Reaching Qualified Bidders

The reputation of Hôtel Drouot, combined with the growth of online auctions, makes it possible to reach an audience of collectors interested in vintage Longines watches and historic chronographs.

“Auctie’s appraised and then sold my grandfather’s Longines watch, providing a precise assessment of its age based on the serial number.”

Testimonial from a client, sale conducted by Auctie’s.

Inheritance, moving, life changes: What should you do with an inherited watch?

Inventory of a Watch Collection and Estate Distribution

Taking inventory of an inherited watch collection is an essential preliminary step before dividing the estate among the heirs. Engaging a certified auctioneer helps establish an objective value for each piece.

Sell, keep, or pass on: options after an inheritance

Once the inventory is complete, several options are available to the heirs. Auctie’s guides this decision-making process without ever pressuring anyone into a hasty decision.

Confidentiality of the process and seller anonymity are preserved

Auctie's guarantees each owner absolute confidentiality throughout the entire process.

Glossary of Watchmaking and Longines

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